White-throated Robin

This is the first section of the trip report and contains details and photos of the sites visited.

This first section spans 4 pages, this being the second:

For details and photos of the birds and wildlife seen, go to the second section.

 

11th-16th May


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B = Durnalık, C = Birecik, D = Şanlıurfa, E = Atatürk Barajı, F = Nemrut Dağı

 

Detail of the Nemrut Dağı area:


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B = Karadut, C = Nemrut Dağı, D = Arsemeia, E = Yeni Kale, F = Cendere Köprüsü, G = Karakuş tumulus, H = Narince

 

Tuesday 11th May

After Kanlidıvane we headed east to Birecik, stopping en route at Durnalık. Just before we got there my first Long-legged Buzzard gave a good show beside the road. The track beside the stream was extremely pleasant: Black-headed Buntings abounded, as did Lesser Whitethroats. Other Buntings included Cretzschmar’s and, eventually, my first Cinereous Bunting. Other warblers included another long-singing Eastern Olivaceous Warbler and a grey Willow Warbler. A few other Hippolais warblers were seen, and whilst I’m not sure I’d be confident about the ID from the views obtained, the song of one seemed to confirm my suspicion of Upcher’s Warbler. The highlight for me though was half a dozen White-throated Robins, which were just amazing! Another new species was Sombre Tit, though a brief glimpse of a woodpecker couldn't be clinched.

Back on the motorway and heading towards Birecik two large larks flew over with dark, but not Calandra-dark, underwings with no white trailing edge and a gleaming white tip to their short tails. Driving at 125 km/h didn’t stop me having these for lifers – quite unequivocally Bimaculated Larks, though of course I hope to get more prolonged views over the next few days.

At Birecik I spent a few too many minutes finding the tea gardens and missed the famous owl, so I had to make do with 3 Night Herons flying up river and a very nice and substantial evening meal for two for the equivalent of about £7.50.

 

Wednesday 12th May

First target this morning was Iraq Babbler at the marshy pools and gravel pits just north of the motel. A quick look round the area produced lots of good birds but initially not the target. Dead Sea Sparrow and Ménétries’s Warbler were the first up, with several of both seen during the morning. My first Pygmy Cormorant flew over, as did several more singles during the morning. A Pied Kingfisher caught a fish and a pair of Rollers put on a good show, as did a pair of Black Francolins.

I knew a group of European birders were also looking for the Babblers so when I saw them in the distance in an area I hadn’t yet checked I hurried round and found them looking at a small party of Iraq Babblers. I believe that as recently as 10 years ago this species was considered to be endemic to Iraq; it was then discovered in Syria in 2001 and spread into Turkey in 2006, although still only found here at this one location, so far as I know. The other birders were also responsible for my next new bird, Desert Finch, as they found a group a bit further down the track.

Next stop was the Ibis wadi. A Bald Ibis flew over the road before I reached it and as we walked up the track another bird could be seen on its nest. Unfortunately I arrived just too late as the same group had just seen, but lost, the See-see Partridges that I was hoping for. We gave the Partridges a while but they weren’t having any of it so we went back down empty-handed. At the bottom a Syrian Woodpecker was drumming and eventually provided views, and the rest of the Bald Ibises had a little fly-around.

Further up the valley we found a place that was full of shrikes, including a Lesser Grey Shrike. Lots more Dead Sea Sparrows here and, eventually, a pair of Yellow-throated Sparrows. We then headed down to the Gülhane Tea Gardens where the proprietor kindly pointed out where the Striated Scops-Owl was roosting. A couple of Fantas later and it had gone, but he found it again and this time it was facing us and occasionally opening its eyes. The car’s thermometer now read 42 degrees so we headed back to the motel for a siesta.

Once rested we headed back up to above the Ibis wadi where, after another 3.5 hours wait, 3-4 See-see Partridges finally appeared just in front of us. They were chasing each other round and not posing for the camera but it was a relief to see them! I didn't realise it at the time but these proved to be my 1000th species of bird. Not much else from here, apart from Steppe Buzzards, Rollers, a distant Lesser Grey Shrike and frequent fly-over Desert Finches.

Euphrates, Birecik, 12-May-10

Euphrates, Birecik, 12th May

 

Thursday 13th May

Vitty wanted to go to Şanlıurfa today to do the touristy thing. Before that we had a quick look round the gravel pits at Birecik but saw no new birds (though some nice repeats, including better views of the Iraq Babblers). Şanlıurfa was horrid; paying to enter the fort was a complete waste of money and, more importantly energy, as it involved a significant climb up and a painful (for my dodgy knees) descent through a tunnel with huge steps and bad lighting. There was absolutely nothing up there to see apart from the view over Şanlıurfa which frankly wasn’t very pretty. We didn’t manage to find anything else worth seeing either, apart from some nice pastries, lots of Laughing Doves and a couple of Ring-necked Parakeets, although Vitty enjoyed the market.

The journey to and from Şanlıurfa produced both Calandra and Bimaculated Larks, a colony of Spanish Sparrows and 2 Lesser Grey Shrikes.

We then headed back to Durnalık for late afternoon. Here we found many of the same birds as last time but still enjoyed the great views of White-throated Robins and Cinereous Buntings. This time I was able to sort out some of the Hippolais warblers that had confused me last time – most were Eastern Olivaceous Warblers and just as I started to doubt whether I had really seen Upcher’s Warbler last time a much better candidate appeared and, helpfully, started to sing, enabling me to be sure that it was indeed an Upcher’s Warbler. Also seen were some Eastern Orphean Warblers and my first non-released Chukar.

Durnalik, 13-May-10 Durnalik, 13-May-10

Durnalık, 13th May

If you’re visiting Birecik and wanting to eat out then there are two restaurants north of the bridge on the east bank of the Euphrates. We ate at Ikinci Bahar Lokantesi twice, had a generous portion of excellent food with good friendly service for 15-20 YTL (for 2). Next door is the Sahel Restaurant, much more prominent with its lights, but significantly empty. We decided to give it a go for our third night, for a change, and wished we hadn’t. The bread was stale, the “salad” seemed to be lentils floating in minty vinegar, leaving just two sticks of kebab meat that was edible – and for this we were charged 26 YTL.

 

Friday 14th May

Last night’s “meal” was the last straw for my spice-intolerant belly so I wasn’t at my best this morning. Perhaps that’s why this morning’s attempt to improve my views of the See-see Partridges again was a complete flop, with nothing apart from Rollers seen here.

The river produced my first views of perched Pygmy Cormorants and before leaving Birecik I checked out the river island just south of the bridge that had I’d seen various herons and Cormorants flying in and out of as we passed over the bridge. It contained a healthy colony including Pygmy Cormorants, Night and Squacco Herons and Cattle and Little Egrets.

The journey from Birecik to Nemrut Dağı passed the Atatürk Barajı where several Bee-eaters and Rollers, Spanish Sparrows and 2 Rock Sparrows were seen, but not the hoped for Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters. Also along the way were 3 Isabelline Wheatears, my first of the trip.

The hotel at Nemrut Dağı was much nicer than the motel at Birecik, albeit proportionately more expensive. In the garden were a pair of White-throated Robins. We headed up to the stone heads with plenty of time as we’d understood the road to be appalling. In fact they’ve replaced it recently and it was much better, and along the way we enjoyed more White-throated Robins and scores of Wheatears, mostly Eastern Black-eared but also a surprising number of Kurdish (Red-tailed) Wheatears. Two male Rock Thrushes were seen and Cinereous Buntings were singing all over the place. The last leg up to the stones was made by foot which was hard work (donkey was an option), but with Shore Larks and Snow Finches for company it was worth it. Near the top an apparent female Black-eared Wheatear (but very grey) was associating closely with a male Kurdish Wheatear - might make for an interesting hybrid...

Nemrut Dagi, 14-May-10 Nemrut Dagi, 14-May-10
Nemrut Dagi, 14-May-10 Nemrut Dagi, 14-May-10
Nemrut Dagi, 14-May-10 Nemrut Dagi, 14-May-10

Nemrut Dağı, 14th May - Vitty took the last two on her iPhone: I should get her to take all the photos in future!

Note, there are two places in Turkey called Nemrut Dağı, both good for birding. This one is the one near Kahta that's better known to general tourists thanks to the heads; the other one is further east and perhaps better known for birding.

 

Saturday 15th May

Still feeling rubbish after the previous night’s meal, or just fatigue from too many early starts, we had a bit of a lie in this morning before heading up towards the heads again, though only as far as the car park. Mostly the same birds, with White-throated Robins, Cinereous Buntings and Kurdish and Eastern Black-eared Wheatears abounding, and more Shore Larks and Snow Finches. New for me though were at least 3 Pale Rock Sparrows singing beside the road; a colony of their commoner relatives, Rock Sparrows, were further up. Also near the top were at least 4 Alpine Choughs.

We also did the other historic sites in the area that Vitty wanted to visit, and along the way saw Long-legged Buzzard, Steppe Buzzard, 2 Black Storks, Blue Rock Thrush and Sombre Tit. Not many warblers seen today (although most birding was done from the car as I wasn’t feeling up for much walking), but one proved to be an Upcher’s Warbler and about 4 were Eastern Orphean.

Nemrut Dagi Milli Parki, 15-May-10 Nemrut Dagi, 15-May-10

Nemrut Dağı Milli Parkı, 15th May

 

Arsemeia, 15-May-10 Arsemeia, 15-May-10
Arsemeia, 15-May-10 Arsemeia, 15-May-10
Arsemeia, 15-May-10  

Arsemeia, Nemrut Dağı Milli Parkı, 15th May - you can't really see the writing above the cave on the last photo, but the close up is a section of it

 

Yeni Kale, 15-May-10 Yeni Kale, 15-May-10
Yeni Kale, 15-May-10 Yeni Kale, 15-May-10

Yeni Kale, 15th May

 

Cendere Koprusu, 15-May-10 Cendere Koprusu, 15-May-10

Cendere Köprüsü, 15th May - this Roman bridge is supposedly the oldest bridge still in use, only 90% of it was new (sorry, "restored") and it was blocked off so you can't use it

Karakuş tumulus, 15th May - King Antiochus got all the stone heads guarding his tomb at the top of a mountain but this relatively pathetic mound is all his wife got!

Finally a distant Scops Owl called as we waited for dinner at the hotel.

 

Sunday 16th May

Before heading off to Demirkazık we had a quick look round Nemrut Dağı again, seeing mostly the same birds. A Rock Thrush again eluded the camera as did another Upcher’s Warbler. At least 8 singing Pale Rock Sparrows were seen or heard this morning.

We detoured to Atatürk Barajı in the hope of finding Blue-cheeked Bee-eater but no such luck, Black Stork being the highlight of this excursion.

 

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